![]() ![]() This means that if you’re attempting to shoot any type of night exterior (or even most night interiors for that matter), you will have a very hard time getting the right exposure unless you have a very big lighting kit, and know exactly how to use it. Since you need to use a 180 degree shutter (meaning your shutter speed is twice that of your frame rate), when shooting at 96fps your shutter speed is effectively 1/192, which is very high considering you are used to shooting at around 1/48 for 24p footage. If you shoot at 96fps in broad daylight for example, you may just be able to get away with it. That said however, there are situations where it is useable – namely in very well lit situations. The image can also be quite grainy and will have compression artifacts as a results of the low bitrate. The images can appear blocky, thin, and they tend to fall apart very quickly when you’re color grading. Trying to do any sort of color work on it makes you feel like you’re working with iPhone footage, or an older camcorder where there is little or no room to play with in post. In most instances, I would highly advise against using 96fps on the GH4 as it just doesn’t deliver great results. In the end, this translates to much poorer final image quality than you might hope for. To put things in perspective, when you’re shooting at 100mbps at 24p you are essentially spreading out that 10mbps of data over only 24 frames, whereas when you’re shooting at 96fps you are getting the exact same amount of data per second, but now you are spreading it out over 4 times the amount of frames, which means each frame gets 4 times less information in it. This may sound like a lot, especially since you may be accustomed to shooting with DSLRs that have very low bitrates (17mbps, for instance), but when you get up into the higher frame rates this really isn’t enough. When shooting on any of the frame rate settings in VFR mode, you are limited to a bitrate of 100mbps. The caveat however is that the data rate is on the lower side. If you’re using this option, the GH4 will actually adjust the clip internally so that your file plays back in 24p (in slow-motion) as soon as you’re done recording, much like a RED camera or other higher end cinema cameras would. It’s tempting to use the VFR mode on the GH4 all the time as there is so much flexibility with regards to what frame rate you can use, and it also saves time in post since you don’t need to slow down your footage. The other option is to use the variable frame rate setting in the menu to shoot at anywhere from 2fps all the way up to 96fps. ![]() The first is the old fashioned way (as you would have done with a GH3 or any camera that shoots 60p), which is to shoot at a true 60p setting and slow down your 60p video file to 40% (24p) in post. If you want to overcrank on the GH4, there are two main ways that you can do it. This is pretty astounding, and certainly makes the GH4 an incredibly powerful to own – but unfortunately not all frame rates are going to work as well as others. No other DSLR/DSLM has the ability to over crank the way the GH4 can, which offers variable frame rates at up to 96 frames per second. One of the biggest reasons that filmmakers are falling in love with the GH4 is because of it’s amazing ability to shoot at high frame rates internally. ![]()
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